Monday, 1 October 2018

Exploring the North coast of Sicily.



We hid from the weather at Capo D'Orlando little did we know that it would become a 'Medicane' whatever the hell that means. Anyway luckily, although things livened up meteorologically speaking, the worst of it headed off to Greece so it wasn't too bad. Nevertheless we had booked a week here so we decided to explore using that far more adventurous method of getting about, the Italian public transport system.

So with Hermy tied up well we booked an apartment in Palermo for two nights which was cheaper than the cost of berthing Hermy in this, very new but half empty, marina.


Palermo is the capital of Sicily this most fought over island. Little did Mrs K know that she was going to see far more rubble than she anticipated.


Indeed most of Palermo is reused rubble from the last three thousand years. We went to see the Norman Palace which was half closed so we didn't end up doing it. We did wander around the Balero market and tried their street food which wasn't too bad but we got charged tourist prices so we didn't eat too much of that. The highlights of the stay were the tour of Conte Federico's Palace having a guided tour by his eldest son who was great.


Of course Mrs K wants an inner courtyard in our next house!


The Cathedral was a must, too, as it was the burial place of Roger II who was a Norman just like William the Conqueror and at roughly the same period they were taking over large parts of Southern Italy. 



As has happened a couple of times now Mrs K has been deemed a tad indecent by the Catholic church who have insisted that we cover her with some kind of tarpaulin so that she doesn't alarm the good Catholics of the parish.

Strangely enough, next on our list was a guided tour of the medieval prison where the university had uncovered extensive graffiti left by the heretics, contained there during the Spanish inquisition. This was where the good Catholics tortured those that didn't quite tow the line. Mrs K would have been a candidate.

Next on the list, for me anyway, was the Archaeological museum . Mrs K went shopping and left me to it. It was good because it explained what you were looking at, when and where it was found and how old it was. We imagine everything we see today is modern yet these 2400 year old fishing hooks look very much as good as todays.


Best of all were the moulded lead sling shots from about the same time that had been moulded with writing on, some saying which king they served, some saying whose army they were in but most interestingly many had insults on.


So you were charging some fortification when you were hit in the head with one of these. You came too and picked up the offending lump of lead and it said 'gotcha you turd'. To add to the insult when it came to your turn to examine your injury with the regimental mirror you saw that the same friendly words were imprinted on your forehead. Fantastic!


All in all Palermo was a good place to visit and we couldn't do it justice in the three days we had. We were quite pleased with ourselves that we had negotiated the train system and their ticket machines and had survived the mad, tiny streets inhabited by pedestrians, cars, scooters and animals without coming to an untimely end.


The other place on the North coast worth a visit is the town of Cefalu. Again inhabited since humans started inhabiting places it was our old mate Roger II who really put it on the map having allegedly sought refuge there during a stormy voyage from Salerno in 11 something. He was so grateful he built a cathedral, as you might expect and a castle right on top of a steep hill overlooking the port.
Now the Cathedral is famous for its mosaic of Christ in the ceiling which is apparently the oldest of its type.



And the views from the 'Rock' where he built the castle were stunning.



Looking East.



And West.


Now Mrs K declared herself a steady and calm completer - finisher whilst eluding to the idea that I was a chaotic starter - stop for a beerer but we completed the whole walk around the Rock of Cefalu and it was very much worth it even taking in the almost 3000 year old temple of Diana.




If you carry rocks this big up a huge hill and build a temple then few are likely to want to nick them and carry them back down.

Anyway after quite a hectic week Mrs K was looking forward to a quiet Sunday relaxing before we set off again when I suggested we went for a short walk and took her to see the Roman thermal baths at Capo D'Orlando. Now I don't think there was any excuse for describing this historic spot as just a pile of more rubble.


Well the breaks over! Back to sailing around.

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