Wednesday 12 October 2016

All washed up.

Well that's it, it's time for bed. Hermy is out of the water and all went without too much of a hitch.
 It was blowing a bit of a hooley as we approached Navy Services yard and I spun the old girl around to dock her, forgetting the keel was up. So she didn't quite make the turn as quickly as I would have liked but bow thrusters are wonderful things.

 I became aware of some French yelling but couldn't really locate it until I looked up and saw a guy hanging from a mast telling me to come towards him. Now Mrs K doesn't like surprises but I had to abort her jumping ashore at the last minute and spun around again to head towards another dock with no way out and an adverse wind. I adopted the 'into wind' approach when more shouting erupted from this suspended Frenchman gesticulating that we must turn around and face the other way at the last minute. Well I could see that Mrs K was not happy but I didn't quite know how to articulate this to the man up the mast.

I spun her round again and we went alongside by which time the small Frenchman had come down to take our lines. At this point the Frenchman told Mrs K that he wanted to be handed the stern line just as Mrs K picked up a fender. He then made the mistake of saying "no the stern line." Her eyes narrowed, just slightly, as she continued with the fender. I could see he was clearly married as I was sure he felt the sudden chill. I think he realised he may become subject to a few well chosen, good husband, pointers should he carry on in the same tone. He was handed the stern line and his close up with Mrs K did the trick. He became very polite. I think he had done the 'Wife annoyed, damage limitation' for beginners course.


All became clear when he gesticulated towards a tractor set up with a large hydraulic trailer type thing and we were facing a slip way. All made sense now. 


Claude and Pascal were our guides while they pushed this sort of forklift set up under Hermy, lifted her and dragged her, teetering up this slope. So scary that we forgot to take a photo. One thing we have learnt in France is that an approaching lunchtime can become an issue if things don't look like they will conclude just before it.

It was 11:45 and we could tell that Pascal was hoping to get away on time. The chocking up had taken a while and all came to a head as they tried to extract the tractor thing. Claude wasn't listening to Pascal and caught the uprights with the lifter. An explosion of 'mind my French' broke out and we witnessed an 'I'm late for lunch and its all your bloody fault Claude,' domestic.

At 1205 all was well and we were slotted in amongst a forest of resting yachts. Despite my plea that our mast should be brought alongside it was clear that Monday was the next opening.


 An up close bottom inspection revealed a few scratches and scrapes that always come with too many rough, shallow encounters. A good clean and scrub, together with a bit of TLC returned her to her former silky smoothness.

Now since we had arrived in Port St Louis we had become aware of the quantity and size of the resident mosquitoes. Mrs K had suffered a bite or two and was not happy. I had spent a night beating myself about the face as the little devils approached my ears with that high pitched dentist's drill noise but somehow always managed to avoid death no matter how hard I slapped myself. 

Luckily Nige had given us a sheet of netting designed for just this eventuality and Mrs K built a mosquito proof stern cabin with which she was very pleased. She said it kept out all but one pest. I'm not quite sure what she meant.



Next step is to step the mast which is always a frightening thing. I have watched Bill and the old boys at the club do it a thousand times and it always appears to go without much of a hitch. When it is my mast it is usually a monumental pigs ear. Tangled ropes, tangled wires, bent split pins, lost pins, no pliers where you just left them, screw drivers that go missing, and wires that don't reach. All these add up to you being a nincompoop in the eyes of weary yards men and adding to your stress levels.

 We had a day to unwrap the mast and put all its bits together, of course bits that refused to cooperate, bits that did not behave as they should but by evening time I was there. What could go wrong?

We woke up on mast on day to a howling wind. Visions of elevated masts spinning around decapitating other masts filled my mind. They won't be able to do it, they will say next week, we will miss our train Mrs K will quickly work out whose fault it is. What will I do? 

The allotted time arrived and Claude and one other arrived. I went to meet the other. "You ready" he said with that, of course not, look about him. "I think so, but isn't it too windy?" "No" came the nonchalant reply it will get much worse than this. It's cold and windy just like being in England I joked. "No" came the reply " it's not raining."

I could see him casting his critical eye over my 'Bill trained' preparations. No criticism came although he removed my line to the bottom of the mast and put his own on. Picky, I thought.

Anyway it all went swimmingly. This other guy was clearly the boss, No way Claude was going to have a domestic here, the boss, present together with the British leading authority on husband correction, he didn't have a chance. Within 15 minutes I was running around trying not to unscrew bottle screws by accident, making sure everything was tight and all pins were in and bent over. Very pleasing and no piss taking from the yard men.




Finally got the bloody electrics to work, well most of them, and it doesn't leak. Yet.
Wife now complaining of ropes thrapping against the mast. I'd forgotten about that, 2 am on deck in the freezing cold in PJs trying to stop ropes bouncing about.

That's it. All washed up and heading home. With a bit of luck we might get Hermy to Corsica next year. See you all next year for another bit of a giggle.



Thursday 6 October 2016

Hermione has crossed France

Staying at Avignon for a week was a good decision but planning our next stop became a problem. There really wasn't one in the next 80 km despite the presence of great towns such as Arles and Beaucaire. We had heard that Arles was well worth a visit so we jumped on a TGV and went and had a look.


Oh yes and I have to report that the Osprey has eaten. After a great deal of circling and three visits to the same spot there was a sudden swoop and headlong dive, a titanic struggle and Mrs K bought a summer dress. Here she is modelling it beside Arles Roman Arena.

We decided we liked Arles, it's Roman remains, it's windy old streets and it's shops. A shame boaty people couldn't stop.


Note plenty of docking for commercial boats but no room for poor old Hermy.
This was also a prime example of a bridge destroyed by the Germans during the war with an appropriate plaque explaining just that.


I think, if you read between the lines, it says, so don't expect those responsible to get through our locks too quickly.

 If you want a sandwich you go to a sandwicherie, in France and we did just that beside the arena at Arles. It is also interesting to see that if you want a crepe you go to a creperie and if you want a tart you visit a tarterie. I wasn't allowed to visit the tarterie.

Having spent over a week at Avignon it was time to go and we decided we had to go early to make the 80 km trip to Port St Louis. This will be our final destination, and our rendezvous with the Mediterranean. So aiming to set off at 0730 I got up at 0630 to prepare the boat and the crew, neither seem to like early starts. At 7:25 all was ready, checks done and crew breakfasted. It was then that I opened the hatch and saw something I wasn't expecting. Fog.



We gave it a few minutes and I found out how to turn the Nav lights on. A quick thump and forward and stern lights were on. Now on my old boat the steaming light had its own switch so back down below but a search of the switches was unsuccessful. Back on deck I found myself staring at the sky. 

Where should the steaming light be? half way up the mast. Where is the mast? Port St Louis.

We got away by 7:45 which was unique for us two.

It did however take some time before it warmed up sufficiently to carry on with the winter bed sock programme.


But all began to brighten up and we passed some more castles .


This is the one at Tarascon but again nowhere to stop. I think I shall be writing to Monsieur Hollande about this.  Beaucaire marked our last lock on the Rhone and second to last overall. Surprisingly we were straight in.

The Camargue is quite flat and our journey to Port St Louis was uneventful only seeing two other ships on our way. Lots of fishermen and loads of Herons.

We arrived at Port St Louis with an hour and a half to spare before they open the lock. They have to coordinate it with the lifting of a busy road bridge so it operates at specific times.

After all the previous Rhone locks it was quite a surprise to find that the water level only dropped by two or three inches. This lock still however took the prize for being the slowest.

On entering Port St Louis we were greeted by Baloo and after a couple of attempts and many reassuring comments about undercurrents we berthed. We had finally made it to the Med.

All we have to do now is lift her out and put the mast back on. Where are the bottle screws my dear?