Thursday 21 September 2017

All alone again!

So six weeks of visits has come to an end and we are alone with Hermy again. Suddenly there is space on the fore deck as we return bikes and sails to the front cabin.


The weather at San Vincenzo abated and we slid across to Portoferraio. No twisters in the channel and anchor for a couple of days to provision up and see if the port there has any reasonable wintering costs. They'll let us know!

Next stop Porto Azzurro one night at anchor two in the port, as the weather is still a bit cloudy and rainy. Out come the Bromptons and we make the mad decision to cycle up to the inland town of Capoliveri, 5 miles up hill!


Mrs K shows no pain when cycling. 

There are many cyclists in Elba. I think it's because of the hills.

There seems to be a cyclists uniform of garish colours and some kind of tight leotard wear. Mrs K informs me this is Lycra and is to reduce friction. I could do with some of that in places as I do encounter a bit of chaffe during these ventures, particularly in the presence of salt and sand.

I wheezed my way up the hill, continually overtaken by old men dressed like Jane Fonda. I am sure one was our old friend Nobby  judging by the tightness of his attire.

We arrived, chained the Bromys to a post and explored what turns out to be a really nice town. It has a museum devoted to a sunken ship the 'Polluce' which sank in 18 some think when it collided with another steamer. There was only one loss of life but quite a bit of treasure went down. The nasty British found it and started to plunder it before the Italians got their act together and recovered many artefacts.


We also had probably our best meal here at a little modern bistrot.


We returned via a lovely little beach opposite Porto Azzurro at Naregno. Mrs K went in for a dip but knowing we still had a couple of miles to go back in the interests of chaffe avoidance I remained salt and sand free.


Brave lady!

Next stop was Marina Di Campo a bay and beach on the south side of Elba again waiting for the weather to settle. 

We decided to do a stern to against the harbour wall as there were no tailed lines and we had to use our anchor. The night was unsettling with little sleep due to the chop and the fear that Hermy would be blown on to the concrete doc. 

The boat next to us gave up and left to anchor in the bay at about 2am but we stuck it out. It was free for two nights and stepping ashore is always a good thing. Anyway the next day the weather didn't settle and a large yacht dropped his anchor over ours, came alongside, collided with Hermy, luckily causing no damage due to us all fending off. We decided it was time to go. We got the large boat to go out again and we made for the anchorage.

Much safer. 


Lots of thunder, lightning and hail.

Interestingly, in 1944 ish, this bay was the scene of Operation Brassard the retaking of Elba by the French, British and Yanks. Quite a battle with large casualties amongst the French, British and Germans. Apparently Hitler had said defend Elba to the last man. I wonder if he had dillusions of following in Boney's footsteps.

An early start for us (8ish) and off to the Island of Capraia after saying goodbye to some nice Irish people who anchored behind us.

A lovely calm motor over with a sighting of dolphins in the distance.


A little gem of a spot. again steeped in history with Corsairs attacking the island, Genoans building forts and towers and Corsicans laying seige. Even Nelson popped in for a short stay at one point.


I wonder what Horatio paid for his berth?

Hermy is parked in front of the little pink house.

Off to Corsica next.

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