Tuesday 25 September 2018

Bobbing around the Aeolians.




I'm not sure what it is that attracts me to Volcanoes. Is it their immense power? Is it their steamy nature? Is it their explosive unpredictability? I think Mrs K may have volcanic tendencies. Anyway our first stop on leaving the rather scruffy Millazzo was the island of Vulcano from which I believe all volcanoes get their name, except for the' U'.

We slid in to the East bay of Levante and were immediately approached by a berth hungry rib driver who wanted to put us up for a mere 60 Euros for the night or we could rough it on a mooring bouy for a mere 50 Euros we decided to anchor for no Euros and managed to get a top spot not too far from the Beach.

It's one thing being attracted to volcanoes and another having to walk up the bloody things. However it was a must and we donned our hiking sandals and joined the long line of tired old people making for the top in the blistering heat.


Two steamy volcanoes.


With the whole reason for the climb being the view and an opportunity to take a picture of my beloved - Hermy. There she is nearest the beach. Oh and Mrs K too. We liked Vulcano so stopped for a couple of nights at anchor swimming in the bubbling sea and taking in the smelly aroma of Sulphur  gases.
We decided that the low lying island of Panarea should be our next stop about ten miles North and out towards that other Volcano Stromboli.




The weather was a little blowy and a bit swelly from the North East which made Panarea a 'not so good' place to try to anchor for the night. Careful seaman like observations can confirm this in the way that no other bugger has tried to. So we circumnavigated Panarea after missing some nasty rocks and made for Salina, an island about 8 miles to the West. Sure enough we got there and saw five other boats anchored up so we crept behind them and anchored up among our new mates. Well it was like Hermy was the scratchy kid at school who no one wanted to sit next to. Within an hour they .all picked up their tackle and sodded off. We reassessed our situation, does Hermy need a bath? Yes, We were still a little exposed to the North East and I spotted a big 'no anchoring' sign on my chart so we did the same and left.


We kept out of this guy's way, we didn't want any give way lessons from him and went in to a little village called Rinella on the south coast of Salina. A pretty little spot with moorings for 40 Euros. We had had enough by then so took them up on it.


We climbed a hill and found a bar overlooking the harbour. Lovely. The above hydrofoil called in here about three or four times a day but no one seemed to get on or off, very strange, still a quiet and pretty village where the major excitement was a fisherman in the harbour hauling an octopus on board that had crept beneath his boat for a quiet night. After a little rough treatment he was ready for the pot.


A sail around the island showed off its rugged landscape.



And we headed for Pignatara the northerly end of Lipari town on Lipari Island and got a berth for 50 Euros and could have had a three for the price of two. Eolmare marina was well managed and had lovely people dockside although the lady in the office had that Italian lady look that made me feel that I had just wet myself on her new carpet. She did however speak good English and despite her inherent disapproval of me. she was very efficient. I am sure Mrs K has some Italian in her.




Despite being ripped off paying 8 Euros for two small beers and the 'Would you like to take a boat ride?' Touters, Lipari was quite an interesting little town with some nice shops and of course a castle plateau that seems to have been inhabited for  thousands of years. It was quite disappointing that after such a time its link to famous people seemed to be confined to Natalie Umbruglio's dad being born here. Even he left when he was five. Although apparently St Bartholemew washed up here having been martyred in Asia. A tricky sail in an iron coffin.

The Museum however was tip top.


A 2000 year old wine shipment.

One of the major trading commodities throughout history was the sale of Obsidian. A strange black, glass/ flint material belched out of volcanoes which turned out to be useful in the sharp and pointy tools world, very much like flint. It was also believed to have therapeutic effects creating inner  clarity, equilibrium and harmony giving calmness and reflection. A slight contradiction having just been jettisoned from an angry and upset volcano. I wanted to buy Mrs K a lump of this stone.


When there are only two of you crewing a boat then you are constantly aware of the other person and constantly looking out for their safety. You have to be prepared to be the life saver, the help when none is available. It's in our sub consciousness it's a kind of sixth sense. you become aware when one may be in danger.  So just prior to leaving Lipari and in preparing Hermy to leave, my overconfidence in managing the plank got the better of me and in I went. I came to the surface knowing my partner and co-sailor would be there. No Mrs K was hoovering. Didn't hear a thing.

 I emerged, showered, dressed and then realised my sunglasses were missing. So in again to retrieve them. I need a lump of that Obsidian stone.

Back to Vulcano. West bay Porto Ponente, for the night.


All the weather Apps seemed to align and say that the weather would deteriorate. Mr Heikell says don't hang around in the Aeolians in such circumstances so we left this serene anchorage and ran for Cap d'Orlando the nearest safe harbour. Very posh.

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